Sun-Baked Sabbatical

Got back on the trail early this morning and met Erik from the Netherlands, whom we leapfrogged much of the day. We were feeling strong after our time in town, and between the flat terrain and slow descent most of the day, we hiked around 21 miles. Made it through Las Cienegas (“the swamps”), an unusually wet marshland specific to the Sonoran Desert. We ended up at Colossal Cave where we’d shipped some food, and hung out in the shade of the visitor’s center eating soft serve and drinking lemonade before heading down to the campground for the night.

Spent the last two days at the closest hotel to the trail to let our feet recover, patch our air pad, and catch up on caloric intake. It turned out to be in a retirement RV resort. We were out of place, but it was a nice spot and had pools, hot tubs, a restaurant, and a little market all within walking distance from our room. We did still go to Tucson for gear at REI and to mix it up with the food, including getting some of the best tacos I’ve ever tasted at a local Sonoran-style Mexican joint. Carne asada! I will be dreaming about those tacos in the weeks to come.

The Sonoran Desert has its own species of fly, and we have become a bit too well acquainted with it over the last couple of days. When you’re hiking, they’re following you around. When you’re resting in the shade, they won’t leave you alone. Basically, there is no respite until the sun goes down. And then hopefully there aren’t mosquitoes…

The heat wave is in full effect today. We hiked early through Las Colinas (Passage 5), some low-lying hills with progressively less and less shade, until we felt like things were getting a little dangerous. The siesta schedule is awkward on the trail, and we didn’t want to overdo it with the next few days of literal record-breaking heat, so we decided to get a ride into town and wait it out. Our feet are killing us anyway. A Lyft picked us up in the middle of nowhere at the nearest trailhead, funny enough.

Got up at 4 today to get some miles in before the heat. Hiked into the foothills of the Santa Ritas and the sunrise was beautiful. There’s a lot of trail redirection going on in this area and somehow we got off the track as described in our navigation app, but were definitely on the new established AZT route. Still, it added a couple of miles and we were grumpy about it. After waiting out the midday heat, we did a few too many more miles at dusk and ended up scrounging together a campsite in the brush in the dark. It was pokey. Our air pad popped. Ugh.

Today we got a late start and it was hot. A heat wave starts tomorrow and you can tell. We struggled with the first 5 miles before resting in a shaded wash for a few hours. I was already feeling jaded, and only a week in. At 4 we got back on trail and went another 4 miles to the next creek, feeling much better with the cooler temps.

We woke up feeling strong and pushed out a bunch of miles. We left the Canelo Hills West, crossed the highway, and headed up into the Santa Rita Mountains, the next sky island on the trail. We found a wonderful spot to camp by a creek as it was getting dark.

Decided to head back out today. Rose has been fighting a cold for most of the trip so far, but is thankfully feeling pretty good and rested now. We bought food for the next leg, including a pack of two dozen freshly made flour tortillas. Yum! Grabbed burritos from a food truck and headed back up to the trail in the afternoon. Found a decent place to camp after a few tries. It felt weird being back after a decadent town stop, but that’s how it goes.

Slept 12 hours last night. Our legs are sore as hell, but we got some chores done and planned out the next leg. Went to dinner at the Velvet Elvis, a cool pizza place with a great bartender who served us Bacanora, a liquor somewhere between tequila and mezcal that was outlawed in Sonora for decades.

Today we entered Canelo Hills West, Passage 3 of 43. We dropped in elevation and into a much different place. Short grass, gnarled mesquite trees, and blooming wildflowers defined the landscape. Met two cowboys on horseback out hunting. Their pack of 20 similar-looking dogs found us first. A little uncanny but they were friendly and cute. The two men couldn’t believe we are walking to Utah. “We drive to Utah pretty often and that sucks!”

Meant to do a short day, but got to smelling the barn and long-hauled into Patagonia, the first town stop. Hitched a ride with a young woman and her dad out dirt biking for the day. They dropped us off at the Stage Stop Inn, a nice historic spot with a restaurant attached. We gorged on burgers and beers.

Hiked to the creek coming out of the lake. Very idyllic in the morning. Then we ascended into the Canelo Hills, Passage 2 of our hike. The hills were like an African savanna, tall golden grass sparsely punctuated with scrubby oak trees. Made it to a scenic campsite near the end of the passage. Finally, a good one.

Got up and headed along the ridge of the Huachucas for a few miles, finally out of the wind. Eventually started descending from pine forest through oak brush. Met Trapdoor at a water source and leapfrogged him a couple of times during the day. He got his name from when his hammock tent gave out from under him one night and he went through it like a trapdoor. Got down to a big natural lake and soaked our tired feet. Camped nearby. Another mistake… tons of mosquitoes. Didn’t think they had those in Arizona!

Woke up in Sierra Vista and had motel waffles. A trail angel named Clyde drove us to Montezuma Pass, pointing out facts about the sky islands along the way. Once we were dropped off, we hiked a couple of miles south to the Mexican border, the official start of the trail. Lots of loud construction. Then we hiked a couple thousand feet up into the Huachuca Mountains and eventually stopped at Bathtub Spring. Met Lone Wolf, a thru-hiking veteran with tons of trails under her belt, and Ariana, on her first (many thru-hikers have “trail names” they’ve earned from friends on the trail, usually with some funny story or personality quirk behind them). Rose wasn’t feeling super well so we camped up on a ridge near the spring. It was a terrible choice… turns out we picked the mouth of a wind funnel and it was blowing hard all night.

Tomorrow Rosalea and I start our next big adventure, hiking the Arizona National Scenic Trail from the border with Mexico all the way to Utah. The trail spans over 800 miles and traverses through a huge variety of Arizona’s natural wonders, from the sky island mountain ranges and saguaro cacti in the south, to the great pine forests and Grand Canyon in the north. It will definitely test our physical and mental fortitude, but will hopefully present us with lots of wonder and excitement too.

Today we picked up a rental car in Colorado Springs and drove southwest to Sierra Vista, AZ, a small town near the border that acts as a gateway to the trail’s southern terminus. The drive was 800 miles… and it really put into perspective how long it will take to hike this same distance we drove in a single day. Buckle up!

Salt Lake City: Mashed Potatoes and Mole

Return to the Wasatch

We crossed the border back into Utah, feeling that familiar relief that comes with being in our favorite state. We beat Josh and Monika to Salt Lake City and made a beeline for Ken Sanders Rare Books. For any book lover, this place is legendary – the collection of Western Americana and desert history is unmatched. After dinner at an Indian and a frustrating search for van-friendly camping (SLC is another city notoriously tough on overnight parking), we admitted defeat and booked an Airbnb in Sandy.

Skiing in Snowbird

In the morning, we made the quick dash up Little Cottonwood Canyon to Snowbird. Compared to the trek from Denver to the mountains, the proximity of Salt Lake to the resorts feels like a cheat code… at least on a Wednesday. Snowbird has been getting hammered with snow lately, but the most recent storm came in warm. We spent the day navigating what felt like mashed potatoes, but it was still fun compared to lots of the conditions we faced this month!

By early afternoon, the fog rolled in and the wind picked up. Between the conditions and a month of non-stop movement, my legs were officially done. Rose and I headed back to town for some “cat therapy” at a thrift store with resident felines, much needed after being away from our own kitty all month.

Mexican Food? In Salt Lake?!

We met Josh and Monika for a final celebratory dinner at Red Iguana, a favorite of her family’s. If you’re in Salt Lake, the mole there is non-negotiable. Really good stuff! We left fat and happy, retreating to the Airbnb to do absolutely nothing but watch episodes of Fear Factor all night. It was the perfect, low-stakes end to a high-adrenaline month.

Desert Solace and the Road Ahead

This morning, we said our goodbyes. Josh and Monika are booking it back to Denver, but Rose and I are taking the leisurely way home. We spent the day hitting a few more SLC spots before driving out to Green River. We kept our driving-through-Utah tradition alive with burgers at Ray’s Tavern before heading out into the BLM land near town.

There is nothing quite like the silence of the desert to help you decompress, and we’re, glad to be back in the land of “camp wherever you want.” Tomorrow, we make the final push to Denver to grab Rose’s truck, then it’s back to Crestone for some serious recovery before our next big adventure: hiking the Arizona Trail.

High Class and Hot Springs: Sun Valley

The Scenic Road to Hailey, Idaho

The haul from Whitefish to Sun Valley was our longest stretch in a while – six hours of shifting landscapes. We descended from the northern Idaho mountains into the Snake River Plain, winding through the surreal volcanic rock deposits of Craters of the Moon before climbing back up into the Wood River Valley. Rosalea has relatives in the nearby town of Hailey that were generous enough to provide us with the holy trinity of road-tripping for a couple nights: a home-cooked meal, a hot shower, and a real bed.

Old School Elegance

Sun Valley Resort is “old money” in the best way possible. The lodge is a masterpiece of mountain class, complete with massive chandeliers and grand wooden staircases. Since it was a Monday, we practically had the mountain to ourselves. While the natural snow was a bit thin, Sun Valley’s legendary snowmaking came in clutch. We quickly realized the groomed runs were the place to be, offering nice, consistent snow that our tired legs appreciated.

To celebrate the home stretch of our trip, Monika treated us to a round of cocktails at a mid-mountain lodge that was just as fancy as the base. It was the perfect moment to toast to the thousands of miles we’ve covered.

Redemption at the Hot Springs

With my legs officially cooked, Rose and I decided to skip the final afternoon laps and hunt down a natural hot spring her family had recommended. After our failed attempt back in Canada, this was my first real natural spring experience, and it was a total success.

We spent the afternoon soaking where the scalding spring water mixes with the freezing river. We shared the pool with some fellow travelers and a group of kids whose hooliganisms and theatrical personalities kept us entertained for a while – one of them reminded me of Katie! It was the exact reset we needed.

The Final Push

We capped the night back at the house with chili and cornbread, followed by a hilariously sorry attempt at a game of Codenames. Our brains and bodies are clearly ready for the finish line. Given the conditions, we’ve decided to trade a second day here for an early start toward our final stop: Snowbird, Utah.

From Icy Slopes to the Poutine Queen: Our Last Leg of Canada

Let Down at Panorama

After a quick breakfast in Radium, we headed to Panorama. The experience started on a high note with a unique standing open-air gondola, but the mountain itself didn’t quite live up to the hype. Between a confusing layout that made it impossible to lap the good terrain and a lower run that was essentially a vertical sheet of solid ice, we weren’t feeling it. We huddled at the lodge over a few beers and made an executive decision: cut our losses and start the long haul toward Sun Valley, Idaho.

One Last Taste of BC

Before leaving Canada, we made two essential stops in Invermere. First, we hit the Book Cellar, a fantastic shop run by a quirky owner and an even friendlier shop dog. Then, we made a pilgrimage to Poutine Queen. This wasn’t your standard fare; we’re talking craft poutine with a twist. Between the Gyro, Butter Chicken, and Meat Lover’s varieties, it was easily my favorite poutine of the trip.

The Whitefish Surprise

We crossed back into Montana with plans to just drive through, we saw that the Whitefish resort had recently gotten lots of snow, so we decided to pivot.

While Rose stayed back to fight off a growing head cold, the rest of us hit the mountain. What a difference a day makes! The snow was incredible and the layout was exactly the antidote we needed after Panorama. By lunchtime, Josh started feeling under the weather again, but Rose had rallied and wanted to get some turns in. She took over Josh’s pass and we charged through a full afternoon of great runs.

Southbound to Sun Valley

Exhausted and satisfied, we began the trek south through the Flathead Reservation, stopping for some excellent Indian food for dinner. We’re back on American soil and high on the momentum of a great day at Whitefish. Next up: a long drive through the heart of Idaho to see what Sun Valley has in store for us.

The Big Arctic Chill

Powder Day at Lake Louise

We woke up to a few fresh inches of snow and beat Josh and Monika to the lot for once! Despite being a Tuesday, the mountain was bustling. Clearly the locals know a rare powder day when they see one. The conditions were stellar, with only a few hard patches peeking through the freshies. We spent the day diving into tree runs and exploring the different areas of the mountain.

-18 Degrees and Olympic Fever

The honeymoon phase with the weather ended abruptly that night. An arctic cold front swept in overnight and we woke up to a bone-chilling -18°F outside, and 8°F inside the van. While we were cozy under a mountain of blankets, getting out of bed was another story.

Josh and Monika were bold enough to get up on the mountain, but Rose and I retreated to the lodge to thaw out and caught the end of the Canada vs. Czech Republic Olympic hockey game. The atmosphere was tense. When Canada tied it up in the third and then snatched the win in overtime, the folks in the lodge erupted. Rose and I attempted one run afterward, but with numb fingers and toes, we decided it wasn’t worth the trouble and retreated to the warmth of the van.

The Icefields Parkway and Banff

While waiting for Josh and Monika to finish their day, we drove a stretch of the Icefields Parkway, one of the most scenic drives in the country, flanked by massive glacial peaks and frozen lakes.

Our next stop was Banff, and between the even colder temps ahead and the total lack of places to camp around town, we all decided to split a hotel room. We got to the room, showered, went out for Alberta beef burgers and poutine, and thawed out in the hotel hot tub afterwards.

Overnight, the cold still took its toll. Not only did Josh and Monika discover that their sparkling water and beer had frozen and exploded inside their van, but our van refused to start. On top of that, Josh was feeling under the weather! After they cleaned up their mess and gave us a jump, we decided to skip the rigmarole of skiing at Banff Sunshine and instead caravaned to Radium Hot Springs and our next ski resort.

The Great Battery Swap

After the van died again at a gas station, we finally bit the bullet and bought a new battery. The shop was kind enough to lend us tools so we could do the swap right there in the parking lot.

With the van finally running smooth again, we pushed on to Radium. We found a quirky motel with a sauna and capped the night with a massive Austrian feast: half-liters of beer, schnitzel, and cheesecake. We’re hopeful that the new battery (and the schnitzel) will power us through a day or two of skiing at Panorama starting tomorrow!

Revelstoke: Valentine’s Powder Day

The Great Gondola Funnel

We woke up to the sound of rain—a discouraging echo of our Schweitzer experience. It was also our first Saturday on the slopes, and the crowd at the base was massive. Because of the mountain’s unique layout, everyone has to funnel through a single gondola, making the line look intimidating. However, the rumors were true: what was rain at the base was pure, light powder up top.

Following a tip from a local regular, we found a lift that delivered exactly what we’d been hunting for. The snow was deep, fresh, and reminiscent of a prime Colorado season. We spent the morning charging through trees and moguls, taking the best runs of the trip so far. After beers and lunch, we went out for more, skiing most of the day.

A Canadian Anniversary

It wasn’t just Valentine’s Day; it was also my and Rose’s anniversary. We celebrated with a double date at a local pub that really screamed “O Canada”: ski decor, flags everywhere, and Olympic hockey on the TV. After a day of burning through our legs on the mountain, we refueled the only way you can in BC: poutine, pizza, and cold beers.

Day two was a “rinse and repeat” of the first, but with shorter lines and plenty of powder stashes still waiting for us. In Colorado, these would have been skied off by 10:00 AM, but Revelstoke kept on giving.

The Rugged Road to Lake Louise

Wiped out but satisfied, we began the trek toward Lake Louise. The drive over Rogers Pass through Glacier National Park was hands-down one of the most unbelievable stretches of road I’ve ever seen. The mountains here are definitely different than in CO: rugged, jagged peaks draped in massive glaciers.

We made a quick stop in a town called, funny enough, Golden for (you guessed it) another bookstore, and visited the frozen Emerald Lake in Yoho National Park.

Chasing the Storm

We pulled into Lake Louise just as the snow started to fall again. The forecast is calling for another four inches overnight, so we’ve hunkered down in the vans, layering on every blanket and sleeping bag we own. It’s going to be a cold night, but the promise of fresh powder in the morning is keeping the stoke high.

Rest Days in the Kootenays

The Scenic Route to Revelstoke

We decided to stretch the journey to Revelstoke over two days, to give our legs a break. The Kootenay region of British Columbia is stunning, defined by massive bodies of water like Arrow Lake. We spent hours winding along cliffside highways and dipping into side canyons like Enterprise Creek, stopping at bookstores and cafés to break up the drive. Nelson was the highlight, with Packrat Annie’s having a big selection of used books to pick from.

A Tale of Two Hot Springs

Further north, our attempt at a “hidden gem” natural hot spring turned into a thirty-minute masterclass in reversing a van down a snowy, rutted-out mountain road. After that comical retreat, we pivoted to a developed spring outside the town of Nakusp that Josh and Monika found. The shower and long soak was exactly what the doctor ordered. We ended the day camping on the beach in Nakusp, enjoying a pleasantly warm (at least for Canada) night by the water.

Ferries and Logging Jerrys

The next morning, we missed the lakeside ferry by a mere eight minutes. In true modern nomad fashion, we didn’t stress; we just popped the Starlink on the roof and watched the Olympics men’s snowboard halfpipe finals while waiting for the next boat.

Once across, we rolled into Revelstoke for some final chorin’ and another quick thrift store pass. Finding a campsite proved tricky though: after nearly getting swallowed by a comically muddy logging road, we settled for a large pullout five minutes from the resort. It wasn’t the most glamorous spot, but the price (free) and the proximity were right.

The Midnight “Local Welcome”

Just after settling into a deep sleep, we got our first real taste of the “disgruntled local” experience. Around 11:00 PM, someone decided to do a few laps around our pullout while leaning on their horn. Apparently it’s a classic experience for van dwellers sleeping off roads in populated areas, but it was a first for us. Once things calmed down, we managed to get a solid night’s sleep, ready to see if the snow in Revelstoke lives up to the promise!

O Canada: Powder and Poutine at Red Mountain

Crossing the Border

We caravanned across the border and (funny enough) through a town called Creston, eventually climbing over a massive mountain pass that gave us our first promising sign: loooots of snow. We descended into the valley and hit Trail, BC, a surprisingly industrial town where Rose and I did a mandatory restock at a Canadian grocery store. We emerged with a stash of Canadian snacks and a six-pack from Vancouver, ready for the next resort.

Our destination was Red Mountain, just outside the cute mountain town of Rossland. For a small fee, they let us camp right in the lot. The convenience of being steps away from the lifts was unbeatable. Once settled and fed, we turned our van into a tiny sports bar. I fired up the Starlink, and we all crowded in to watch the Olympics and play games before the cold mountain air sent us to bed.

Finally: The Good Stuff

After a chilly morning fueled by lattes in the lodge, we finally hit the jackpot. The conditions were exactly what we’d been hoping for: firm, fast groomers and actual fresh powder in the trees. Yay, Canada!

After some runs, we hit Rafters Bar for a proper Canadian refuel: poutine and draft beer. Satisfied, we waddled back to the lifts and spent the rest of the day hunting down powder stashes. It was easily the best skiing of the trip so far, and we stayed out until everyone was completely wiped.

Knowing When to Fold ‘Em

By the second morning at Red Mountain, the fatigue of skiing nine out of the last ten days finally caught up with us. It was a gorgeous, bluebird day, but also a bit of a comedy of errors: Josh and I nearly cliffed ourselves out, Monika’s snowboard bindings needed work, and the energy levels were bottoming out.

Apart from the snow, this has been our favorite resort so far: really similar to where we ride at home with a locals vibe, fun terrain, no lines, and a cool bar. But after a few pitiful runs, Rose and I listened to our legs and called it. We headed into Rossland to knock out the glamorous side of van life – laundry and water refills – before finding a quiet place to park and sleep just outside of Castlegar. Tomorrow begins our trek a few hours north to Revelstoke. We’ve heard big things about the vertical there, so we’re hoping the rest day pays off!